Tsukihitei

I've stayed at a lot of ryokans in Japan (and a lot of hotels). This one might be my very favorite, though it's hard to have a favorite. I can say that it is so exceptional, I've been twice and will likely go again. It's not cheap! But you get so much for what you pay. It's not possible to stay anywhere else in the Kasuga woods and so if that kind of thing matters to you, then know that you go to sleep and wake up deep in these primordial woods. You might hear the flying squirrels at night--or see one at dinner, as we did. The air is clean and old and heavenly. The little ramps connecting rooms feel like something out of Heian Japan. The lighting is subtle, but still dramatic so you feel lifted into another world at night. Subtle things like the sound of falling water connect you to the elements. There is nothing over-processed here, or over stylized, as in modern hotels. If you prefer an "Andaz" or "Ritz Carlton" type of thing, then this is not for you. If you want something that feels utterly Japanese, then this is for you. The baths are both exquisite, as are the rooms. And the Kyoto style food was out of this world. Again, if you need a hamburger for dinner, then this place won't be for you either. But if you like exquisite, inventive, seasonal and utterly surprising Kaiseki food, that is still charming and inviting, then nothing is like Tsukihitei. And as a bonus, you are right by the foothills of a gorgeous mountain walk. Everything from the staff, to the snacks (which are plentiful) to the flower arrangements are beautifully chosen. Tsukihitei has also managed to maintain hallmarks of ryokan service (making your futon), without being intrusive. I've been in ryokan where the staff are constantly with you, and that is exhausting. That doesn't happen here. If you are looking for a pure Kansai and Japanese experience, I'm not sure where you will have a better stay.

Our room, Sakuri, was great. Like living in small tea house with sliding walls and floors made of mats. Had our own wooden bath tub for private onsen. Traditional Japanese dinners and breakfasts were superb. Thanks so much to the chef for accommodating our vegetarian diet. Service was exceptional.

All of it. The location in the woods is special - where else do you get to watch a bunch of flying squirrels scamper through the trees while you head to dinner? Relaxing in one of the private baths after a busy day pounding the pavement. The meals (breakfast and dinner) were sumptuous. We have travelled extensively and stayed in many amazing and interesting places - this one is near the very top of the list. For those looking for something truly different from your standard luxury hotel chain experience, this is it!

Very hospitable and accomodating. Genuine in wanting to provide a good ryokan experience. They took care of everything from drawing the baths and scheduling meals with us and patiently waited when we were a little late. Hosts were always on hand to greet when we enter or left the property. We even went for a little hike after arriving and it was quite peaceful, seeing the occasional deer along the way. We also asked for help to book a taxi to take us back into town and it was promptly waiting for us at the scheduled time.

Staff were very obliging, even drove us down to see the Nara lanterns after our amazing dinner. Yukatas were high quality as was everything in the room, down to last detail. There was a cute bag for us to take home. Forrest location is serene!